|STL 50- $1.50 sq.ft.
STL 50 is a polyethylene mono turf that looks like a freshly mowed lawn and is completely pet safe
and used throughout the world. STL 50 requires 1 lbs of infill per sqft.
Available in Field Green
1 1/2 pile height. 50 oz polyethylene Monofilament with nylon thatch and Double polybac with 20oz
STL Promo- $1.65 sq.ft.- Limited Supply at this price
Promo is a 52 oz. per sq/yd. combination of a field green nylon and a tan texturized nylon yarn
tufted at a 1 1/2 pile height. Primary backing consists of a layer of 13 pic poly bac and a layer of 18
pic polybac with a 20 oz. urethane secondary coating. Perforations for drainage are standard on
this product. This product is visually enhanced with the use of a brown thatch resembling dead
STL 60- $2.00 sq.ft.
Absolute is the new trend in artificial turf. With a polyethylene mono and texturized thatch that
makes this turf most durable longest lasting turf on the market. Available in Spring Green , Field, or
1 3/4 inch pile height 60 oz polyethylene fibers.
Double polybac with 20 oz urethane.
STL 70- $2.15 sq.ft.
STL70 is our best and most popular grass produced. STL 70 combines both density and softness
to create the best turf on the planet. STL70 is made of a dual tone fiber to give the most realistic
look to natural grass you can get.
1 53/4 inch pile height 70 oz polyethylene fibers. Double polybac with 20 oz urethane.
STL 85 - $2.45 sq. ft.
STL 85 is 85 oz. per sq/yd. of “FIELD” green PE Monofilament and a thatch consisting of
texturized “Field” green and “Tan” monofilament tufted 3/8 gauge at a 1 3/4” pile height. Primary
backing consists of 2 layers of polybac, 1@13 and 1@18 pic with a 20 oz. urethane secondary
coating. Perforations for drainage are standard on this product.
Landscape Installation Instructions
1. Mark Off the Installation Area. Using an outdoor spray can marker, mark off the boundaries
for your lawn. Remember that Grass comes in 15-foot widths. Plan your installation with this in
mind, to have as few seams as possible with your layout.
2. Remove Existing Sod and Landscaping. Use a manual shovels, a gas-powered sod puller
(you can rent one at most rental centers) or have a local landscaper remove the existing sod
and any landscaping you want removed from your installation area.
3. Close the Sprinkler System. Your Synthetic lawn won't need watering. If you have a
sprinkler system in the installation area, cap the sprinklers and turn off their valves.
4. Compact the Existing Ground. You need to fully firm up the ground that will be the
foundation of your Synthetic lawn. The only really good way to do this with a vibrating plate
compactor, which you can rent from most rental centers.
5. Apply Weed and Grass Killer. Apply a high-quality weed and grass killer to the lawn
installation area. It's also a good idea to put down a mesh weed barrier (this is not always
necessary arid or dry climates).
6. Lay the Sub-Base. Lay down a top 1" to 3" layer of rock aggregate (1/4" minus; you won't
feel any protruding rocks under your feet on your Synthetic lawn). Ask your local nursery, rock
yard or Salesman what material local landscapers use under paving bricks and similar project
and use that material. With this sub-base, your goal is only to make your base firm and level. If
your soil is especially unstable, you may need more than 3 inches of sub-base. If you are not
sure, ask an expert in your area - a local nursery, landscape center, rock yard or Arizona Luxury
7. Spread, and then Compact the Sub-base. Use the vibrating compactor again to firmly
compact the sub-base.
8. Check for Surface Depressions. You should fill in and re-level any based depression that
is more than 1/4" deep. Even though Synthetic Grass drains water vertically through drainage
holes built into it, we also suggest giving the base a very slight slope, away from any buildings,
to avoid any pooling at all.
9. Roll Out the Grass. Position your lawn strip-by-strip and be as accurate as you possibly
can be. Be sure you don't cut off any turf that you actually need! Also, try to avoid dragging the
turf. The grass is very tough, but until it's installed properly, dragging it can damage the
underside or the blades.
10. Cut the Grass to Size. Use a very sharp blade in a quality utility knife. First, to make the
turf easier to handle, cut off larger pieces of excess material. Then make sure the turf is still
properly positioned where it needs to be and trim the edges more precisely.
11. Seam the Grass. Where two pieces of Lawn meet, you will need to make a seam. You can
use carpet tape or roofing tape, or you can use carpet glue and landscape fabric to seam your
Synthetic lawn. You can find these supplies at almost any home center like The Home Depot or
Lowe's. This is not as critically a detailed task as you might expect (In certain climate i.e. desert
southwest, seaming can be done with nails as glue has been shown to break down from excess
heat. This also allows for accessing below the grass if needed without cutting or removing
seams). Because synthetic grass has a relatively high blade height, seams are much less
noticeable than what you might expect and certainly less noticeable than on pile carpet.
Remember however, detailed instructions about seaming are provided with your purchase; this
is only a summary. You can also hire a local carpet installer to help you for a few hours with this
part of the project (although that's not usually necessary).
12. Apply the Infill. After the seam glue has dried, trim off your grass so your lawn fits exactly
as you want. Then, using the standard seed-drop spreader, apply the infill. The average infill
amount is usually three pounds per square foot. The infill helps weigh down the turf down and
stabilize the fibers to keep them upright and prevent matting. Infill can be sand, rubber or a
combination of each. Most installers use sand infill. (We recommend copper slag as this product
retains no pet odors.) It does the job well and is the least expensive choice (about $3 for a 50-
pound bag). Rubber is softer than sand and is considered the premium infill material, particularly
for play areas or sport or recreation areas where children or adults might be falling a lot. But
rubber infill material is quite a bit more expensive than sand (about $25 for a 50-pound). Also, on
a sloped installation, rubber infill has a tendency to rise to the surface of the grass blades more
readily than sand does.
The bottom line: Apply the material you can afford and prefer. As you spread the infill, make one
entire pass on the on the surface of your new lawn and then sweep the infill deeply into the
fibers. Then repeat this process until all of the infill has been spread and fallen in between the
13. Optional Edging. Depending on your yard and your landscape concepts, you might install
edging around your new lawn. Options are incredibly varied and include extruded curbing, 4" x
4" timbers, natural stone, rock, metal edging and plastic edging. If you are not going to apply an
edging, we suggest you hammer regular landscaping nails every two inches along the perimeter
of your Synthetic lawn to prevent the edges from lifting.